For radiant floor heating, either flexible plastic hot-water tubing or electric cables/mats are installed beneath the flooring -- best done in new construction, as part of a major remodel when the floors will be torn up anyway or in small areas (kitchen, bath) of an existing home. Unlike forced-air heating there's no ductwork and no air blowers.
Typical costs:
Expect to pay anywhere from $6-$15 a square foot to professionally install a hydronic (hot water) radiant floor heating system; that's $9,000-$22,500 for a 1,500 square foot home, depending on the number of temperature zones and the overall size of the system. New construction tends to be the least expensive, while tearing up and replacing floors in an existing home costs the most. Popular Mechanics estimates that professionally installing a hydronic floor system in a 2,000-square-foot ranch house averages $10,000-$14,000 (without air conditioning).
Because of the high cost of electricity, electric radiant floor heat is typically installed in one room rather than an entire house; an average-size bathroom runs about $400-$700 for a thin electric mat installed in thinset cement, controlled by a timer-thermostat.
Radiant air heating systems are used in commercial buildings, but are generally not considered cost-effective for residential use.
What should be included:
Hydronic systems use a boiler to heat water and a pump to circulate hot water through plastic pipes that conduct warmth to the surface of the floor. The Eugene Water & Electric Board in Oregon provides an overview of hydronic systems.
Electric systems either use cables built into the floor (generally in new construction) or electrically conductive plastic mats mounted on the subfloor under a covering such as tile.
If concrete is added to an existing floor when installing hot water radiant heat, you may need to reinforce the floor supports. The additional cost will depend on the amount of support needed, but if this is required be sure it's included in all cost estimates.
Discounts:
Cut costs by installing radiant floor heat in just a small portion of your home, to supplement the existing heating system,
Get several estimates, making clear what is (and isn't) included in each quote. Request and check references; ask about the contractor's length and type of experience; and be sure they're properly bonded, insured and licensed in your state. See if there are any complaints with the Better Business Bureau.
My home was built in 1942. The plan says there are wrought iron pipes in the floor. My boiler is old, when the home was built. The damaged pipes were close to the attached garage of the home and close to the boiler. The foundation is cracked and water was leaking. I do not want to change the system I love my heated floors. We viewed other pipes at the other end of the home and they are fine. no damage. Is it possible for all or most of the pipes to be damaged? how did air get to the pipes to rust in that area. The water source was cut off to the garage when I purchased the home. please respond and let me know what I should do about the system.
The cost listed is just what I spent in MATERIALS! Installed in a row house in Baltimore. Installed myself as I am Master Plumber/Gas fitter. Installed the Triangle Tube 110 Prestige with the Triangle Tube Indirect Fired Water Heater. Ran about 300 ft of 3/4 Pex and 1500 ft of 1/2 Pex in a staple up system with radiant panels, insulation, and all new two pipe system at the boiler and 4 seperate zones. I had already demoed all of the ceilings to get access. Bottom line...I love the system, very even heat, eliminates all the radiators taking up space, and...WOW it saves money (heat bill is $140 with below freezing temps instead of $400)...lets not forget TRUE endless hot water with the Indirect-Fired water heater, not like those fake "tankless" water heaters when the ground water temp drops and you turn on more than one fixture. Yeah...they don't tell you about that on their website or advertisements.